[Løst] 4matic kobler ikke inn (88 300TE W124)

[FuzzFuet]

Har en 88mod 300TE (W124) som av en eller annen grunn ikke kobler inn 4matic når det blir glatt og begynner å spinne, så står bom fast. Heldigvis er verkstedet det bygget som ligger lavest i terrenget på eiendommen Er det noen her som har erfaring med dette og har noen tips om feilsøking og lignende? Har sjekket alle sikringer jeg har funnet men de ser bra ut. Systemet er jo elektrisk/hydraulisk-styrt så el-feil/lav oljenivå er ikke utelukket. Hvor sjekker og etterfyller jeg olje til 4matic-en?

 

Ting som kan være relevant:

 

- 4matic lampen i dashboret lyser ikke når jeg slår på tenninga.

- ABS lampen lyser konstant (dette tror jeg den har gjort en liten stund før dette skjedde, men gjorde ikke det når jeg kjøpte bilen. Usikker på om ABS fungerer etter dette)

- Bilen kan helt tilfeldig (relativt sjelden) når jeg kjører kutte motoren slik at jeg må stoppe vente i 5sek og så fyre opp igjen. Forrige eier trodde dette har med overspenning-releet og gjøre.

 

Er ikke kjent med denne bilen og har ingen manual å se i, har sett på nettet med finner ingen.

 

Noen som har noe tips?

Endret 10. januar 2012 av RamboEinar

[Skandinav]

Begynn med enkleste, skift girolje

[ErikBlodøks]

benytt deg av diagnoseprogrammet når det gjelder ABS'n. Det lure er å gå på et mercedes forum og spørre. De vet nesten alt

[Hachon]

Jeg er ganske sikker på at 4matic-systemet ikke virker når det er feilkoder på ABS, men jeg ville brutt diagnoseprogrammet til å finne ut av det.

Jeg tipper det er manglende hastighetssignal fra en av abs-sensorene som gjør at det ikke virker..

[FuzzFuet]

Hydraulikk oljen til 4matic-systemet var tom, har fylt på men ingen forskjell, skal prøve å lufte systemet i dag og se om det hjelper.

 

Angående diagnoseprogram, hvor finner jeg det?

[Reka87]

Diagnose programet er ikke noe mere hokus pokus enn en liten ledningsstomp du "kortslutter" diagnosekontaktene (er like ved batteriet

) han på videoen har laget til en liten lyspære på ledningen men det trenger du ikke. ta en ledningsstomp i hull nummer 1 (jord) og den andre enden i hull nummer 5. Asd lampa vil blinke (den midt i speedometeret) og antall ganger den blinker indikerer en feilkode. sørg for at du har en kompis som sitter å teller antall blink, da du neppe klarer å løpe inn i bilen rett etter at du har jordet diagnosekontakten.

 

Antall blink.

PIN 5 4MATIC System w124

1 No fault

2 4MATIC control module

3 Stop lamp switch

4 Left front axle vehicle speed sensor

5 Right front axle vehicle speed sensor

6 Rear axle VSS

7 Axle VSS sensors or ABS control module

8 Overvoltage protection relay module, or front axle drivetrain valve, or central differential lock valve

9 Overvoltage protection relay module, central differential lock valve, or rear axle differential lock valve or stop lamp switch

10 Overvoltage protection relay module, or rear axle differential lock valve, or stop lamp switch

11 Overvoltage protection relay module, or steering angle sensor

 

Motor må stå på tomgang for å få testet

[FuzzFuet]

Diagnose programet er ikke noe mere hokus pokus enn en liten ledningsstomp du "kortslutter" diagnosekontaktene (er like ved batteriet

) han på videoen har laget til en liten lyspære på ledningen men det trenger du ikke. ta en ledningsstomp i hull nummer 1 (jord) og den andre enden i hull nummer 5. Asd lampa vil blinke (den midt i speedometeret) og antall ganger den blinker indikerer en feilkode. sørg for at du har en kompis som sitter å teller antall blink, da du neppe klarer å løpe inn i bilen rett etter at du har jordet diagnosekontakten.

 

Antall blink.

PIN 5 4MATIC System w124

1 No fault

2 4MATIC control module

3 Stop lamp switch

4 Left front axle vehicle speed sensor

5 Right front axle vehicle speed sensor

6 Rear axle VSS

7 Axle VSS sensors or ABS control module

8 Overvoltage protection relay module, or front axle drivetrain valve, or central differential lock valve

9 Overvoltage protection relay module, central differential lock valve, or rear axle differential lock valve or stop lamp switch

10 Overvoltage protection relay module, or rear axle differential lock valve, or stop lamp switch

11 Overvoltage protection relay module, or steering angle sensor

 

Motor må stå på tomgang for å få testet

Takker så mye for tips folkens

 

Fant en guide for å lufte systemet også, er vel de samme koden du du fant Reka87?

 

92 300E 4matic bleed guide

 

I wanted to write a small guide on this since neither the application sheets I could find on line nor my manual was very good at helping me decipher this.

If you have removed the engine, transmission, power steering pump or transfer case from this vehicle or accidentally run out of hydraulic oil you will need to bleed the hydraulic system of your 4matic. The preliminary stuff I will tell you here before getting into the individual steps. After putting everything back together and double checking that everything is in place, fill your hydraulic reservoir with ZH-M hydraulic fluid, its available from Autohausaz.

http://www.autohausaz.com

Now remove the black plastic shield that sits behind the battery. You will see a black box that says 4matic. This is your 4matic control unit. Don't disconnect it yet. Just a bit to the right you will see a small red box with two red 10 amp fuses (at least they should be 10 amp fuses, if it has anything else, check the manual to be sure of the correct amperage, do not use fuses of a greater amperage than necessary here. My 92 300e 4matic uses 10 amp fuses here). Pull both fuses and make sure that they are good, then put them back in place. Now we are ready to start bleeding.

 

1- Start the car, leave it running in park and apply the emergency brake. Right in front of the battery you will find a test switch for the 4matic control. They can vary but on my 92 it is a small black knob that reads test and Funktion. Pull it out slightly and set it to test. Now allow the car to idle for about a minute. Look for the Power Steering Pump on the drivers side of the engine compartment. It has a metal cannister top with a round knob to secure the top. On the side of the pump (facing drivers fender) you will find a few lines coming out of it, the one we need is the hollow through bolt type, not the flared brake line type fitting. It will require a 17mm wrench. While the car is running you need to crack this line loose just enough to allow the pump to bleed. It may require a couple of turns to get it loose enough to start seeing oil shoot out of it. If you are having a problem loosening it, shut the car off and break it loose first so that it will be easier to open it for bleeding while the car is running. Once it is bled and no more air is coming out return the test switch to Funktion and shut the car off.

 

2- Now disconnect the wire connector going to the 4matic control unit. Then remove the control unit. With a strong light, look at the plug connector on the control unit. You will be looking for the number markings that will indicate the numbers of the terminals, there are two rows and reading from the wire harness end on the left to the connector end on the right, the top row should be 1-13 and the bottom row should be 14-25, number three should be a blank as will be the two terminal holes just below 1 and 2, yours could be slightly different which is why YOU MUST look at the numbers on the 4matic control unit to determine number position. What we need to do is find terminals 2,4,6 and 8 on the connector. Now that we have determined exactly which terminal is which, start the car and check that the 4matic switch is in the funktion position with the 4matic control unit disconnected. Raise the rear of the car and on the rear axle facing the front of the vehicle you will find a bleeder screw probably covered with a rubber cap, mine required an 11mm wrench to open, once we have a wrench in place on this bleeder screw, jump terminals 2 and 8 on the wire connector for the 4matic control unit, open the bleeder screw and wait until you have a strong steady stream of fluid, not a drip. When it is correct you will have pressure enough to shoot fluid towards the drive shaft. Close the bleeder and replace the rubber cap. Lower the car. The rear of the system is now bled.

 

3- With the car still running, we refill the hydraulic reservoir to replace what has been lost to the first two bleeding steps and now we will begin to bleed the transfer case clutches. The application sheets I have say to jump 2,4 and 6 together momentarily 20 times to allow the system to bleed itself, but when I did this all I ended up doing was blowing one of the 10 amp red fuses we checked at the beginning of this guide. What I did was jump 2 and 6 for two seconds and then 4 and 6 for two seconds and went back and forth for about a minute. By then it should be fully bled. I then jumped each for about 10 seconds again and by now since it is bled you should be able to see the fluid level rising or lowering in the hydraulic reservoir depending on whether you are jumping 2 and 4 or 2 and 6. Once you can see fluid rising or lowering in the hydraulic reservoir by jumping these terminals you know that the transfer case is bled.

 

4- Shut the car off. Recheck the fuses for the 4matic just in case we blew one of them during the bleeding. Return the 4matic control unit to it's place and reconnect the wire connector to it. Return the black plastic shield to its place behind the battery. Refill the hydraulic reservoir. Disconnect the battery momentarily to reset any fault codes we may have set off during the bleeding, this can be done easiest by just removing the ground screw that the negative battery cable connects to just a few inches from the battery. Leave it disconnected for about a minute and then reconnect. Start the car and take for a test drive, 4matic should now be working. If it is not and the warning light appears, I am including a copy of a warning light fault code test that I found on this forum, big thanks to it's author GeorgeMurphy. Here is the original web page:

 

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=1148

 

Under the hood, right by the battery, there is a connector labelled X92.

1) Start the engine.

2) Short pin 1 and 5 for not more than two seconds then release

3) The 4-Matic dash light goes out for two seconds, then it starts blinking the code with one second between each blink, then it goes on steady.

The number of blinks constitutes the fault-code. If you miss it, just do it again. If you short for more than two seconds you will erase the code.

 

Codes:

1 - No fault

2 - Defective control unit

3 - Brake switch defect

4 - Speed sensor left front gone

5 - Speed sensor right front gone

6 - Speed sensor rear center gone

7 - All speed sensors gone

8 - Hydraulic valve 1, short- or open-circuit

9 - Hydraulic valve 2, short- or open-circuit

10- Hydraulic valve 3, short- or open-circuit, OR brake switch defect

11- Steering angle sensor defect

 

Just one more note on my experience with these. It's a good idea to keep the transfer case fluid fresh on these cars. To change the fluid just remove the tin shield which is held in place with three screws on the transfer case. Use a 14mm allen key to loosen the top plug. You may need to shorten the end of your 14mm allen key for it to work here. Remove the top plug FIRST!!!! They say that if an excess of fluid comes out, your transfer case clutches are leaking internally. Now remove the bottom 14mm allen plug and allow it to drain. Close it up and refill with transmission fluid. It's not easy to fill, unless you have a pump. You can refill this by running a 3/8 hose from the top opening out to the side of the car and up over the door handle, attach a soda bottle to it with the bottom cut off. Keep filling it slowly and allow it to gravity feed itself until the transfer case is filled to the top opening. I had a slight leak from one of the seals that was dripping onto the exhaust and creating smoke. I used half a bottle of transmission stop leak when I refilled it and it stopped the leak!!!

 

Good Luck!

[FuzzFuet]

Viste seg å være en enkel fiks, en av sikringene i overspenningsvernet var gåen (10A). Bytta den og ABS lyset ble borte og 4matic lyste igjen.

Så nå funker 4matic og ABS