Hører du ikke lyden ved å kjøre over fartsdumper hvor begge hjulene går opp/ned sammen men du får den ved å kjøre over en dump med ett hjul? Da er synderen mest sannsynlig et hundebein/kjyllingbein eller krengings stabilisatoren.
Kommer den uansett om et eller begge hjulene går opp eller ned bør du få sjekket bærekuler/foringer på den siden.
Drivaksler kan også lage ulyder.
Jeg ville funnet meg en ny mekaniker om han påstår at ikke noe er galt men du fortsatt har ulyder.
Så feilkilder er, hundebein, krenknings stabilisator, foringer, hjullager, drivaksler og bærekuler så du bør få bilen sjekket av en kompetent mekaniker.
Og skifte deler som ikke er er defekt koster mer enn å betale noen å få sjekket hva som er galt.
Okay, first thing you need to do is empty out your trunk for easy access. Next, remove both side panels inside the trunk. Just turn the black plugs 90 degrees and they pop out. This will give you access to the battery on the right, and the factory amp on the left side.
So, first disconnect the battery so you don't shock yourself. Find the amp on the left side of the car. It's a silver box with a bundle of wires going into it...fairly easy to find. Remove the bundle of wires from the amp. There's a little sliding thing to disconnect the bundle...it's easy to figure out once you see it. Here's the wires coming directly from the head unit that you'll want to tap to grab your signal from:
Left + Black/Red Left - Black/Violet Right + Black/White Right - Black/Brown On/Off White/Violet
I had to cut the black fabric tape that was wrapping the wires so I could access them. Just tap those wires and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need an LOC. To control the power to your amp, tap the thin White/Violet wire and connect directly to your amp. This will ensure your amp turns on/off when the car goes in and out of sleep mode (just like the factory amp). Make sure you do a good clean job tapping into the wires...they will still need to feed a signal into the factory amp so the rest of the speakers make sound
Plug the bundle of wires back into the factory amp and you're done grabbing a stereo signal.
Most people seem to mount the amp either hanging under the rear deck, or on the flat part of the left-side panel (the one that covers the factory amp...this is what I did). I've also read that some people that have smaller sized amps were able to fit them UNDER the panel so they stay stealth...if you do this make sure you take cooling into consideration. Also, the back of the rear seats is another option (this is what I did on my e46).
That's about it, running power to the amp is pretty easy since the battery is already back there. You should be able to figure the rest out. BTW, I did this install on my '05 530i, no nav, standard audio (not logic 7).
Siden cad programmet anbefaler Nvidia tror jeg dette er et bedre valg, cad program kan være litt sære.
http://www.multicom.no/multicom-kunshan-n150r-156-full-hd/cat-p/c1000042/p10634166
Personlig hadde jeg ikke kjøpt enn 17" laptop som jeg skulle ha dratt med meg.
Kjøp maks 15" og heller en ekstra skjerm til bruk hjemme.
Jeg har prøvd det på H100i på grunn av slurv under montering, var litt rask og oppdaget det ikke før jeg byttet kabinett etter ca 3 mnd.
Testet det den gangen og det utgjorde ikke mer en 1 til 2 grader forskjell på en i5 tror der er 6970k uklokka.
